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The Greek Capital

Rugged inlets and sandy bays comprise the resplendent mix that is the Athens Riviera. Therefore at the end of an autumn day, I found myself with a quite pleasant dilemma: where to head to relax bones still longing for a final taste of warm weather. For this city offers something that many continental destinations cannot: a coastline of over 60 kilometers featuring beaches many a Greek island would envy.

Out of season, the coasts of Attica still have a magnetic allure, as I discovered when taking a dip into a fading sun across the Vouliagmeni Bay. For those looking for rejuvenation in azure seas primed to turn orange pink as the sun sets, bathing off one of the Riviera’s accessible or exclusive beaches does not let you down.

With sea salt still clinging to my skin, I sat at a local tavern, a eatery whose Mediterranean fare is as good as the spectacular view of the bay it sits on. In a nod to bygone eras, the meze is served on large wooden trays.

The city is as renowned for its hills as its coastline: natural elevations within view of the ancient citadel that make it a treasure trove for amblers when temperatures are cooler. For those who want to get away from a city that extends across almost 500 square kilometers, these stone formations – bearers of fabulous names such as the Hill of the Nymphs and the Muses' Hill – are a must-see.

In my opinion, this historic city is the continent's most spiritual and sublime.

If you climb the summit of Mount Lycabettus, the city’s tallest peak, either by foot or on the funicular rail car, the reward is a spectacular vista of the entire gulf and the islands beyond.

If you want to be in the center, the ancient Plaka neighborhood remains the best base. The traditional a classic hotel hotel has rooms facing the north side of the Parthenon from about €140 bed and breakfast. In the same area, a popular restaurant is a preferred restaurant with locals and serves the most succulent lamb chops. With vistas of the ancient monument, Athens’ rooftop restaurants are wonderfully atmospheric and ideal for warm autumn evenings – for a real treat visit Kuzina or the award-winning fine dining establishment.

Palermo

Believe Neapolitan pizza is the last word in pizza? Think again. In this city they prefer Sicilian pizza, a soft, airy rectangle of dough topped with intense, onion-heavy tomato sauce and sprinkled with caciocavallo cheese and herbs. Hearty, satisfying and comforting, it’s available in bakeries, kiosks and stalls throughout the town (Via Maqueda in the historic centre usually has multiple sellers).

We try it at a kiosk on Piazza della Kalsa, near where we’re lodging. A local spot often has long queues, but they move quickly as employees serve slices of the pizza, as well as arancini and panelle. There are a few tables under the shade outside, but we eat as we walk into town along narrow a street. This is a nice walk in autumn but wouldn’t be so in the heat. As hot spells swept Europe this year, the mercury in Palermo reached 40C in the shadow. At the end of July one sunbaked corner hit a record 70C at ground level.

We stroll the city and enjoy how its rich past is etched in its streets.

Now, as temperatures rise to 24C by mid-afternoon, we can wander the metropolis and savour how its heritage is written in its roads. Walking by historic buildings, and a famous coffee shop, the city’s first coffee house, we admire the unique architecture of the medieval San Cataldo Church; Piazza Pretoria, with its 16th-century water feature, placed under Spanish rule; and the grand church, built on the site of a ancient Islamic temple.

On the way back we detour to the local market, the roots of which also stretch back over a millennium. Some decry its commercialization, but it is still noisy and brilliantly theatrical. Being adventurous, we pause for a classic pani câ meusa, which is surprisingly OK, with its mildly sugary “filling” set off by cheese topping. The vendor is especially pleased of his grilled goat’s intestines but, unfortunately, no amount of salt and lemon can make those a delight for me.

We’re glad to head back to more peaceful La Kalsa, the historic district to the eastern part, which was bombed in the World War II and declined for decades before being revitalized this era. Maison Butera (ocean-facing doubles from €161 with breakfast) is a four-room guesthouse with lots to see close by. Up the street is Palazzo Butera, a baroque grand building restored and relaunched in recently to house the an art collection, which includes works by Gilbert & George and pop art icons.

Next day we stroll a short distance to Palermo’s Botanical Garden, with its record-breaking ancient tree. Birds are chirping loudly as the sun pours down. Soon we’ll be in the UK, the time will change and the cold season will start. We enjoy a last week in the light.

The Austrian Capital

While lamenting the close of the warm season and spending time at beach bars and swimming areas on the branches of the Danube, I’m now chasing a different color. This city is a city of green spaces and well-kept lawns, grassy areas and forest zones, which swap their emerald halo for a rusty amber and ochre glow the Austrians call Goldener Herbst.

I depart from the grandiose architecture and cobblestones of the downtown. South-west of it, Schloss Schönbrunn Park extends from the grand royal palace, where the gold isn’t reserved for the inside, and makes its way into corridors of tall bronzed hedgerows and arched tree terraces that lead to the butter-yellow palace.

To the eastern part, in the city’s Prater Park, I walk beneath the chestnut trees of the main avenue, an path that’s almost five kilometers long and centuries-old. On the border of the park, the vintage-designed a trendy hotel (rooms from €78 B&B) is a ideally located getaway.

In a city with many city gardens (thanks to a long-standing commitment to promoting green spaces and fostering local culture), the fall brings a abundance of fresh produce on menus. Pumpkin cream soup is the seasonal staple – best eaten in a traditional pub such as the art-splashed a popular spot – and followed with a Wiener Schnitzel.

Vienna is a city of green areas and landscapes that change their green cover for a golden and ochre glow.

Little known, the capital is the only continental city to produce vintage within its city limits, with 700 hectares of grape fields. There are 14 official urban paths, known as Stadtwanderwege. Track 1 leads you through the wine country of a district. Settle in a hillside Heuriger such as a local winery, drinking a zesty grüner veltliner with a Brettljause (an assortment of sliced meats and dairy), while enjoying the beautiful urban view.

The days are getting briefer, but now is the ideal moment to stroll among the city's grand buildings, galleries and historic abodes – a {cultural crop|